Pready to leave. Or just to leave? There Milan Fashion Week Man Spring Summer 2022 with its trends and shows, it fits into a framework of attempts by the fashion system to resume its usual rhythms, 18 months after the start of the COVID-19 emergency.
It was from last September that there were no live shows, in Italy as all over the world. Last week Dior kicked off the dances, with a spectacular show (complete with Hollywood guests) in Athens for Cruise 2022. The one in Milan will be followed by the Paris Fashion Week maschile and, after that, theHaute Couture.
Milan resumes its course, therefore, with men’s fashion and the exploration of trends for spring summer 2022. But the protagonists, perhaps more than clothes, are the feelings of designers, which for a year and a half have experimented, with very different results, to maintain a relationship with consumers and the public despite the restrictions. No wonder the vast majority of brands wanted to use their presentation (live or still digital) to talk about escapes, of hopes, of distractions e relax.
There is the sea in the shows of Prada and of MSGM, there is a vision of Rome unique in that of Fendi, there is the heat in that of Tod’s. There is someone who starts walking on the tracks in the parade of Etro, there are the lights of a party in Puglia in that of Dolce&Gabbana, there is the discovery of a new Milan from Ermenegildo Zegna. Before starting to talk about fashion, inspirations, codes and meanings again, Italian fashion expresses its link with the territory in the most spontaneous way. A simple desire, that of returning to life, which in our country more than in the rest of the world really means reconnect with what is around. And there is time for everything else.
Men’s trends 2022, what we saw at Milan Fashion Week
Giorgio Armani, casual without excess
The designer remains anchored to his idea of building fashion, defined even better by the positions taken in the months of emergency. Creating clothes that mark the time without indulging in detours: this is always the approach, collection after collection. A certain desire for freedom pervades the setting, in the headquarters in via Borgonuovo where it all began, with an enchanted garden as a backdrop. It is from here that Armani starts again, with few, very few guests unlike those that can contain the theater in via Bergognone.
But it is declined in clothes only through hints, imperceptible changes at first glance, which then become habit. THE bermuda light, the jackets of flax, the shoes removed in the final and the walkway with bare feet.
Prada, in a tunnel of joy
Miuccia Prada herself wrote it in the post-show press note: “A sense of utopia, of the ideal, of hope, of positivity. Being exposed to nature, going to the beach: it’s freedom. It is utopian. This is indeed a primary need, even intellectual “.
Another sentimental fashion show for the duo formed by the stylist and designer Raf Simons, a couple for a year now at the helm of Prada. The one for theautumn winter 2021/2022 still spoke of closure, of restrictions, even through the title – Possible Feelings.
For the spring summer 2022 instead, the protagonist is the possibility that becomes a fact, that of going out and is translated by an army of models marching through a red and claustrophobic tunnel and resting their feet (and patent leather moccasins) on the white sand of one beach in Sardinia, with the clear sea. «The primary sensation is one of joy. It’s almost like that memory of a child, the joy of a child who goes to the sea. The simplest and most honest of pleasures. In all its simplicity, it is also something very significant and timeless, ”added Simons.
At the same time there is the definition of the new Prada style, which is only partially new. Perhaps more than in the previous ones, in fact, here the new icons of the brand stand out, what could be the must-have clothes and accessories.
Who a certain type of merchandise – fisherman hats, microshorts – meet the codes of the Pradaness e dell’ugly-chic, like the tone-on-tone logo, the disturbing prints and colors from the 70s, the collegiate mood of socks pulled up to the calf.
MSGM, generations in freedom
Different beach (in Maremma), same sense of liberation for signed production NO TEXT which tells about the spring summer 2022 collection by MSGM. And then there are the photographs of Francesco Nazardo and the music Lorenzo Senni. Inspiration comes from the work of Stephen Milner and in particular from the series of photographs A Spiritual Good Time, a tribute to the surfing communities of the 90s.
Also there generation imagined by Massimo Giorgetti, she runs away from something and lives, travels and dreams in search of one newfound freedom. The clothes try to trace this pure spirit through the colors, the mix&match, the tie-dye and the other prints.
Etro, nomadic spirit
Escape is also spoken of by Etro, a brand with a nomadic soul par excellence, which has made travel its primary inspiration since the very beginning. The models parade on the tracks of the Farini airport in Milan, soon part of the redesign of the spaces of the city. And they do it on the notes of The era of the white boar, song of Franco Battiato, who passed away on May 18th and with whom the designer Kean Etro had a strong friendship. Again one optimistic collection, made of color and accessories designed for those who are always on the move, like the water bottles, i leggings and the saddlebags.
Sunnei, virtual reality
Among all the brands that have during the pandemic experienced more with digitization – from Balenciaga’s video game to Khaite’s augmented reality, Sunnei he seems the safest of his choices. He is the only one, in fact, not to abandon the path traveled in recent months, with the models in 3D version and the project Canvas – a platform on which it is possible to register and modify and personalize the garments and accessories on sale – it also becomes a physical space. In fact, he opened Milano Canvas, can be visited by appointment in Via Privata Pietro Cironi 15.
As far as clothes are concerned, the path towards the creation of genderless and seasonless garments, from sneakers 1000chiodi to the earrings rubberized, from striped pajamas to monochrome bags.
Dolce & Gabbana, parties and memories
Gives Dolce&Gabbana the instinct of freedom and celebration is released definitively from any uncertainty. There are illuminations typical of the Apulian summer festivals and there is the public, finally, at the former Metropol cinema in Milan. But above all for the brand it is time to look at the archive and ride the wave of #Y2K, the trend that Generation Z likes and that praises the 2000s fashion.
So, green light to the more unbridled decorativism, with sequins and stones embroidered on almost every pair of pants. The belt with the logo is also back, that DG which sums up perfectly the fever of twenty years ago for the brand and for its opulence.
Tod’s, Italian summer
Under the italian sun, is the decidedly explanatory title of the digital presentation of Tod’s. The video is emotional, with music and filming that serve to convey a feeling of warmth, of hot sun, which Italians know well. But Tod’s does not only speak to Italians, and the video is a tribute, more than to the usual and iconic landscapes, to a feeling.
Fendi, Roman dream
«The particular point of view of each of us in this period has changed our perception of the world: mine is very linked to what I see from the arches and roof of our building. From here, it’s like observing Rome from a bird’s eye view. The colors and the perspective are constantly changing. The delicate palette that dyes the Roman sky during the day is so beautiful: I wanted it to be a central point of this collection “, he wrote Silvia Venturini Fendi in the post-show note. The building to which it refers is that of the Italian Civilization, in Rome, seat of the headquarters of Fendi. And, once again, the outer space, the link with what surrounds the designers, influences the presentation (signed Nico Vascellari) and the spring summer 2022 collection.
But Silvia Venturini Fendi, who remained in command of the men’s line after the arrival of co-creative director Kim Jones, also continues her exploration of the world of accessories. The Baguette it becomes small, indeed, very small. There Peakaboo it comes in nylon. A new buckle is born, Fendiness, which goes well with the demands of the market. And then there collaboration with the Arena brand, consisting of a pair of goggles and a cap on sale from January 2022.
Ermenegildo Zegna, a new man
Alessandro Sartori is among those designers who really looked to the new during the pandemic. For Ermenegildo Zegna has studied a coherent but different way to present their collections, first approaching the concept of phygital, which in fashion has then made everyone agree in times of restrictions – only to see an articulation of different choices as soon as it was possible. A parade without audience, therefore, but which has all the warmth of one show closely connected with the places where it is filmed, those of the “new Milan” (Piazza Olivetti, the Bocconi campus and the Zegna headquarters).
Similarly, Sartori has been working on the last year and a half classics of the male wardrobe, those garments that seem unchangeable over time and whose aesthetics for some time no longer represent a large slice of that target. Now also those leaders conquer the much desired freedom, and reborn after 18 months of smartworking in a more relaxed, soft, contemporary version.
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